Modifications for the Jeep

Free Wheeling Hubs the easy way

Obtain another set of stock splined hubs... Turn out the splines and insert a bronze bushing to support the axle. Bolt them on in place of the splined hubs and you have a free wheeling front end. I have used this method since back in the 60's and have never had trouble of any kind. The bushing is a must to keep the axle splines from wearing on the hub. I have a set for my restored 1943 MB and no one can tell when I have them on. I also carry a set (one each, splined & unsplined) in my CJ-3B Jeeping Jeep in case of Warn hub or axle failure.

The hubs in the pictures below are from later model Jeeps. The WW11 Jeep hub would have indentations between the bolt holes, but the same thing can be done with them.

Free Wheeling Hubs 5a.jpg (114007 bytes)    Free Wheeling Hubs 6a.jpg (100861 bytes)    Free Wheeling Hubs 8a.jpg (120291 bytes)

Tired of bending front main leafs...

Turn the swing and fixed ends of the front springs around. With the swing end in the back you are pulling instead of pushing on the spring when you hit something with a front tire. No more bent main leafs. Later model military jeeps like the M38-A1 were done this way.

Not something you would want to do on a restore.

Stock system                                     Modified with swinger in rear

Front spring hanger reverse 1a.jpg (93836 bytes)    Front spring hanger reverse 2a.jpg (110334 bytes)                                             Front spring hanger reverse 3a.jpg (165519 bytes)    Front spring hanger reverse 7a.jpg (97503 bytes)


Tired of replacing king pin bushings to keep the front end from shimming

Take one of your tapered roller bearings & race to a machinist and have him make a bronze bushing replica of the bearing. Two things happen when you replace the tapered roller bearing with a bushing. #1: No more davits in the race where the bearings sit when in the straight ahead position where they are 95% of the time. #2: The bearings on the bottom sit in any water sucked in and rust away. On the top side they don't get oiled properly and seize up from rust. (dry most of the time) I have been doing this since about 1968 to any & all of my 25 & 27 front ends. Somewhere along the line I have heard that the old International Scout used these as a stock item. I have never confirmed this.

King Pin bushing 1a.jpg (70244 bytes)    King Pin bushing 4a.jpg (77043 bytes)    King Pin bushing 5a.jpg (74355 bytes)    King Pin bushing 9a.jpg (94030 bytes)    King Pin bushing 10a.jpg (87771 bytes)    

King Pin bushing 11a.jpg (88268 bytes)    King Pin bushing 12a.jpg (91321 bytes)    King Pin bushing 13a.jpg (90232 bytes)

Tonight 4/29/2013 I confirmed that Scouts did use the bronze bushing on the top side only. 

Dana 27,30,44 front axle with closed knuckle.

IH Part Number 250382C1  Dana/Spicer part number 32244

I found the part number in some parts lists but they were listed as obsolete or out of stock.

Good idea from G503 forum for the forward Fuel Pump Bolt

This bolt can really be a pain even with the fender off. Easy mod and makes fuel pump replacement a snap.

In the shop with the fender off a quarter inch drive extension works fine, but in the field this mod makes everything easy.

MB - GPW Fuel Pump Bolt mod -b.jpg (101918 bytes)

Need more room behind the pedals & steering wheel ?

Big Boy Drivers Stock Seat Modification On this site

To be more visible to other drivers...

Auxiliary Stop/Tail Lights for the World War 2 Jeeps  (Quick & Easy Removal)